Stainless Battery Screws & Wheel/Rim Protectors

[bentbiker]

Don't like rusted battery screws and disintegrated rubber washers?
You don't have to live with them.

I have packages of 8 stainless screws WITH new O-rings for both the Li-Ion and NiMH batteries. Both have the same dimensions and Allen head sockets (3mm) as the original equipment. I also use a single drop of non-permanent thread-lock (not included) on the end of each screw for my unit.

Also, if you want to protect your wheels from the dings and dents of plastic, or even metal tire irons when you inevitably replace your tires or patch your tubes (or pay someone else to to it), I have the machined wheel protectors that hang precisely over a 14 inch wheel, spreading the force over a large area.

Li-Ion Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg) - - - - - - $6.00
Ni-MH Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg)- - - - - - $4.00
Wheel/Rim Protector (2 recommended)- - - - - - - - $5.00 ea

For US shipping, add $1.00 for the first item and $.75 for each additional item. Payment via Paypal to: bentbiker@hotmail.com. If any dealers are interested, screws are packaged in individual zip bags, and are labeled and ready for sale; contact me for pricing on screws.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/normal_Screws_and_Protectors.jpg

[drmarty]

John,

That little protector for the rim is the bomb.

If you are going to change tires or fix a flat then this is a must. It keeps you from damaging the rim.

Also, even if you aren't doing it you might encourage the technician to use it.

Thanks!

:cool:Lets Ride:cool:
Marty

[bentbiker]

John,

That little protector for the rim is the bomb.

If you are going to change tires or fix a flat then this is a must. It keeps you from damaging the rim.

Also, even if you aren't doing it you might encourage the technician to use it.

Thanks!

:cool:Lets Ride:cool:
Marty
Thanks for the testimonial; maybe I should have contracted to have more of them made. BTW, what length screw does the P model battery require? Same as the Gen1 NiMH?

[SEGsby]

The battery screws look perfect for what I've been searching for! The stock ones tend to corrode pretty quickly where I live. :(

SEGsby

[bentbiker]

Quick and Easy Install of Rigid Replacement
for Spring on i2 Parking Stand

If you are fed up with the wimpy spring and you have decided on a rigid alternative, I have an inexpensive fix.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/Stand_Installed~0.jpghttp://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/New_Stand-Down.jpg
As you can see from the picture above, it easily holds its own in side-hill parking.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/normal_New_Stand-Up.jpg

All I've done is swapped a piece of aluminum tubing (tapped to screw onto the original rod) for the original spring and black heat-shrink tubing. If you can take the original parts apart (all it takes is a screwdriver and maybe pliers), you can have what I think is a better looking and totally functional stand -- for $6 plus shipping. Let it be stated clearly here that the OWNER must decide whether ANY rigid stand is safe as far as possibly catching/hitting something if left down or it comes down while in balance mode. This tubing weighs less than the spring and heat-shrink and should therefore have less of a tendency to deploy when going over a bump, but the user has to make up his own mind on this.

I don't think I had to use anything other than a screwdrive to get the spring off of the threaded rod, but it is easy enough to give it a try; if it won't come off, it is probably no less functional with the spring half removed than it was before attempting removal. Note: I don't think it is possible to remove the spring without destroying it. My spring had a dab of epoxy holding a couple coils to the threaded rod, but I broke it free with a big screwdriver. If you don't want to do any work, or get stuck, send me the old unit and for $12 plus $4 shipping I'll return the rebuilt stand. If you get the pieces apart, I'll send you a tapped replacement tube for $6 plus $2 for shipping. Here are the old parts and the new parts with which you will be dealing. Payment ininstructions are below.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/Original_Stand_Parts.jpg

The parts above are the original parts you must separate. Putting the new one on is just 60 seconds of screwing the pieces together. Threaded rod piece is screwed into aluminum tubing and that combo is then screwed into the upper/swiveling portion of the stand.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/New_Stand_Parts.jpg




Don't like rusted battery screws and disintegrated rubber washers?



You don't have to live with them.


I have packages of 8 stainless screws WITH new O-rings for both the Li-Ion and NiMH batteries. Both have the same dimensions and Allen head sockets (3mm) as the original equipment. I also use a single drop of non-permanent thread-lock (not included) on the end of each screw for my unit.

Also, if you want to protect your wheels from the dings and dents of plastic, or even metal tire irons when you inevitably replace your tires or patch your tubes (or pay someone else to to it), I have the machined wheel protectors that hang precisely over a 14 inch wheel, spreading the force over a large area.

Li-Ion Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg) - - - - - - $6.00
Ni-MH Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg)- - - - - - $4.00
Wheel/Rim Protector (2 recommended)- - - - - - - - $5.00 ea
Replacement Tube for i2 Stand- - - - - - - - - - - - - $6.00
plus $2 US shipping.
Remove Spring and replace with Replacement Tube - $12.00
plus $4 US shipping.

For US shipping of screw sets and wheel protectors, add $1.50 for the first item and $.75 for each additional item. Payment via Paypal to: bentbiker@hotmail.com. If any dealers are interested, screws are packaged in individual zip bags, and are labeled and ready for sale; contact me for pricing on screws.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/normal_Screws_and_Protectors.jpg

[SF Segway Tours]

We had serious problems with using stainless battery screws on the i167-i180 models. In the bottom of the Segway deck there is a pressed in stainless coil / insert in each battery screw hole. Stainless screws and stainless coils / inserts end up binding / locking together due to a reaction between the metal. I'm not sure if the same set up is on the new I2. We ended up going back to the black anodized screws.

[bentbiker]

We had serious problems with using stainless battery screws on the i167-i180 models. In the bottom of the Segway deck there is a pressed in stainless coil / insert in each battery screw hole. Stainless screws and stainless coils / inserts end up binding / locking together due to a reaction between the metal. I'm not sure if the same set up is on the new I2. We ended up going back to the black anodized screws.
Thanks for the input, but galvanic corrosion doesn't occur between two pieces of the same metal (stainless screws and stainless HeliCoils). I'm guessing you had something else going on. In the automotive industry, when a steel bolt is used to hold aluminum together, they use an anti-sieze paste; you might want to look into that. And steel cannot be annodized, so the black steel screws are probably oxide coated, which, as you've seen, are not very resistant to corrosion.

[SF Segway Tours]

We operate over 30 + Segways. This problem of binding - be it with the metal deck material, stainless inserts or both was very common. This problem was only when we switched to stainless screws from the black factory supplied screws. When we switched back no issues. I'm not a metallurgist but the results were very evident in our operation.

[RAG1247]

the problem with stainless parts is called galling

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

[Five-Flags]

Thank you, Richard. Good link & info.:)

[falves]

Hey John,

Just sent you PayPal for an i2 stand tube.

Thanks,
Fernando

[SEGsby]

I like the looks of the soft metal tube. The dowel rod hasn't really been as effective as I'd hoped.

Has this mod been tested for when someone gets on a machine and takes off with the stand deployed?

Thanks,
SEGsby

[bentbiker]

Hey John,

Just sent you PayPal for an i2 stand tube.

Thanks,
Fernando
Thanks for letting me know. Your order was among 5 being held hostage by my spam filter. Everybody's stuff should ship within the next couple days.

[bentbiker]

I like the looks of the soft metal tube . . . Has this mod been tested for when someone gets on a machine and takes off with the stand deployed?No! With any rigid stand, such an act will result in something breaking -- the stand mechanism, the tube, the screw threads, and/or a human body part. However, I've made the length of the tube long enough that it should not easily go into balance mode with the stand down. However, if you put the stand in a depression and put it into balance mode, you could do it. It is getting tougher and tougher to make things idiot-proof because the idiots keep getting smarter (or is it dumber?).

[falves]

Hey John,

Just put on the tube. Looks good!

I can see how you had to destroy your spring in order to get the bolt out. I destroyed mine too… In retrospect, you can remove the bolt without as much as scratching the spring. All you need is an allen wrench long enough to reach the bolt from the inside of the spring and unscrew the bolt all the way out through the spring. This way, the spring’s coils are loosened as you unscrew. Trying to remove the bolt with a screwdriver from the other end tightens the spring’s coils around the bolt and makes it basically impossible to remove. You might want to tell future customers about this discovery.

The only ‘problem’ I see is that the inside diameter of the tube is slightly larger than the ID of the spring and the rubber foot fits somewhat loosely on the end and could end up falling out. My solution will be to apply a little easy to remove glue (like pain old white glue) which should hold the foot on there more than well enough. I think I will also get some new heat shrink tubing and shrink wrap the new assembly all the way down to just beyond the edge of the rubber plug.

With rumors of a new stand on the way from Inc., we'll just have to see if it is indeed an upgrade (certainly can't be a downgrade! :)) or just new... Until then, this is a worthy upgrade! It definitely feels much more solid and not like the Seg will tip over as soon as the stand touches the ground!

Cheers,
Fernando

[segwaypilot]

Nice job on the kick stand as well as a good price. Theres a guy on ebay who paints a blot black, you put it into your original kick stand which sells for $20. Little much for a black bolt. Need one for a X2 please.

[bentbiker]

Nice job on the kick stand as well as a good price. Theres a guy on ebay who paints a bolt black, you put it into your original kick stand which sells for $20. Little much for a black bolt. Need one for a X2 please.
Thanks. I answered your PM before seeing this post. What I said was:
"I haven't really tried it on an X2, because I don't know anybody with one . . . I'm willing to make one that is 1" longer (same differential as Segway has on the original stand), and bring it to the picnic that Segway OC announced. If you are interested, and want to bring your disassembled stand parts, we could try it there in about 2 minutes and see what you think."

[bentbiker]

Quick and Easy Install of Rigid Replacement
for Spring on i2 Parking Stand

If you are fed up with the wimpy spring and you have decided on a rigid alternative, I have an inexpensive fix.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/Stand_Installed~0.jpghttp://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/New_Stand-Down.jpg
As you can see from the picture above, it easily holds its own in side-hill parking.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/normal_New_Stand-Up.jpg

Along with the replacement tube, I am now shipping a new threaded rod installed in the tube. This makes the swap a 2 minute job -- just unscrew the spring/rod combo with a pair of pliers or Vise Grips and screw the replacement on. You can have what I think is a better looking and totally functional stand -- for $10 plus shipping. Let it be stated clearly here that the OWNER must decide whether ANY rigid stand is safe as far as possibly catching/hitting something if left down or it comes down while in balance mode. This tubing weighs less than the spring and heat-shrink and should therefore have less of a tendency to deploy when going over a bump, but the user has to make up his own mind on this.

If you can't get the spring off the old stand, or don't want to bother, send me the old unit and for $16 plus $4 shipping I'll return the rebuilt stand. I offered this as an option in the past, but since the new threaded rod is now included, it's probably less effort to remove the spring/rod combo than to remove the entire stand. Here are the old parts and the new parts with which you will be dealing. Payment ininstructions are below.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/Original_Stand_Parts.jpg

The parts above are the original parts you must remove, but you can leave them as one piece. Putting the new one on is just 60 seconds of screwing the unit in by hand (maybe a pliers with rag if you want it really snug and/or a drop of thread lock). The new threaded rod piece is already screwed into aluminum tubing and you will just screw that combo into the upper/swiveling portion of the stand. You will move your existing rubber nub from the old and put it into the bottom of new tube (if really tight, I find silicone spray makes it simple). I prefer the original nub to something like a cane tip because it is lighter in weight out at the end of the tube in the raised position, and keeps the tube from hitting when moving up or down stairs/curbs. We don't want the new stand coming down when hitting a bump. In fact, there is a 4mm allen set screw up inside the swivel portion of the stand that can be tightened to apply more pressure to the indent/locking portion if you feel your unit has had excessive wear and gotten sloppy.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/New_Stand_Parts.jpg




Don't like rusted battery screws and disintegrated rubber washers?



You don't have to live with them.


I have packages of 8 stainless screws WITH new O-rings for both the Li-Ion and NiMH batteries. Both have the same dimensions and Allen head sockets (3mm) as the original equipment. I also use a single drop of non-permanent thread-lock (not included) on the end of each screw for my unit.

Also, if you want to protect your wheels from the dings and dents of plastic, or even metal tire irons when you inevitably replace your tires or patch your tubes (or pay someone else to to it), I have the machined wheel protectors that hang precisely over a 14 inch wheel, spreading the force over a large area.

Li-Ion Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg) - - - - - - $6.00
Ni-MH Battery Screws and O-rings (8/pkg)- - - - - - $4.00
Wheel/Rim Protector (2 recommended)- - - - - - - - $5.00 ea
Replacement Tube for i2 Stand - - - - - - - - - - - - $10.00
plus $2 US shipping.
Remove Spring and replace with Replacement Tube - $16.00
plus $4 US shipping.

For US shipping of screw sets and wheel protectors, add $1.50 for the first item and $.75 for each additional item. Payment via Paypal to: bentbiker@hotmail.com. If any dealers are interested, screws are packaged in individual zip bags, and are labeled and ready for sale; contact me for pricing on screws.

http://forums.segwaychat.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14723/normal_Screws_and_Protectors.jpg