i2 Replacement Wheel Assembly Review

[SEGsby]

The set of replacement i2 tire assemblies I ordered, arrived earlier this week.

They each come packaged in a plain cardboard box that includes:

Tire and Tube already mounted on stock i2 Rim (Inflated, check psi)
3 additional Hub Bolts (Different than my machine has)
1 replacement stock Hub Cover
Users Manual and Warranty Info

Before putting on the tires, I inflated them both to 18 psi (I like them a bit hot) and used Meguiar's Gold Class "Endurance" gel on both the inside and outside sidewalls of each tire. The bottle claims to "Last weeks not days" and it's true. The stuff lasts a really long time and the gel won't soak into the rubber deeply. But don't use it on plastic or painted surfaces, as it can damage the finish. Be careful applying it. Wipe any excess off the tires and never coat the treads themselves. I'll use ArmorAll on the black plastic Rims, Hub Covers, Fenders, Trim, etc.-- and it's perfect for that. It does not damage those materials, but can soak into rubber and cause blistering and potentially weaken the sidewall; so avoid putting it on your tires.

Rubber tires are apparently vulnerable not only to UV's, but Microbial activity & Oxidation, too. Some manufactured tires have been known to form tiny crystals in their structure over time as they age, which can lead to cracking and reduced lifespan. Coating both sides with Meguiars's protectant gel, should help twards extending the usefulness of my new purchase. Plus, it's pretty. Your tires will look like black mirrors with this stuff, I kid you not.

Everything in the package initially looked exactly the same as my original stock parts-- until I went to use the new Hub Bolts. They're now 13 mm. But my original bolts worked perfectly with my 1/2 inch socket wrench. So the tool that got my tires off (which was very easy to do) can't be used with the new bolts. Grr. I should pick up a new socket set anyways... It's my understanding that many mechanics just purchase a Metric set, and use them on standard bolts with generally no problem.

One of the Hub Cover's had a slightly bent spoke, but it fits fine and after riding it for a few days, it hasn't fallen out or appeared to work loose. I don't think it's a real problem, but make sure to check for any warped pins to make sure your covers are going to hold in place properly.

The cost of the tire assemblies was actually lower than I had assumed. They're $134 each at my Santa Monica Segway Dealer, so if you're in need; they have more in stock now. With CA tax, I paid about $300 for a new set.

I'd forgotten how nice it is to ride on a new set of tires... Mmmm.

SEGsby

[dynk]

I have one of those boxes with a tire assembly in it. Segway gave it to me to replace my flat tire last May.

[bentbiker]

Before putting on the tires, I inflated them both to 18 psi (I like them a bit hot) SEGsby . . .
I wonder whether this could be a contributor to the premature tire wear (especially down the center) and the traction concerns you've mentioned before. Higher pressure reduces the contact patch size. Just a thought.

[SEGsby]

There is simply no way to NOT have wear on the center of the i2 tire, since the Segway is using that section of the surface almost constantly.

A smaller contact area should make for less friction / flexing / traction and at least, theoretically; create less tread wear. I can get a little more range out of my battery at 18 psi, so this seems to be backed up by practical experience.

I would think running the tires slightly hot would actually produce the opposite effect your suggesting? I guess I'll find out. :)

Probably the best way to reduce wear of the stock i2 tires, is to run on an offroad set occasionally to distrubute the usage.

Hmm, offroad tires... This is the perfect moment for Plo to mention something Polo related! ;)

SEGsby


I wonder whether this could be a contributor to the premature tire wear (especially down the center) and the traction concerns you've mentioned before. Higher pressure reduces the contact patch size. Just a thought.

[polo_pro]

Hmm, offroad tires... This is the perfect moment for Plo to mention something Polo related! ;)

Well, I may not have much of an OPTA for you, since the only reason I ran my knobbies at high pressure (about 20 psi) as because I kept losing the bead on them. I know you sure don't want a tire to have the sidewall collapse during a hard turn in polo (XT's and x2's have to worry about this ALOT more). So you can't let the tire pressure get too low.

But when it comes to long distance gliding, higher tire pressure is a must. You'll happily take premature wear if it gives you that extra 10% in range. Because it's all about getting to your destination on whatever batteries you have!

I checked my commuting tires just now. One of them always lost air, so I ran it at very low pressures for very long periods of times. (I'll bet that this the same rim that was giving me trouble with throwing knobbies by losing pressure and eventually the tire bead.) My commuting tires were both worn more on the outside edge than the inside edge, but more importantly ONE of the tires was worn alot more on the outside edge. Both commuting tires had significantly more tread in the middle...but to remember, this is Michelins on a Gen 1 machine. Maybe other commuters can tell us where they saw tire wear first AND please include if you tend to run your tires at lower or higher pressures on the average.

[yosgof]

Since now i2 has an odometer it would be nice (in due time) to know the actual milage a tire can be useful for.

[Scotty]

I was wondering why you got a replacement wheel assembly. I just got my new i2. At top speed I get a pulsating up and down motion. This is very anoying and a little uncomfortable. I thought you might have got the replacement for that reason.

[quade]

Since now i2 has an odometer it would be nice (in due time) to know the actual milage a tire can be useful for.

I have a feeling that's going to vary a bit depending on the surfaces you ride on. Even if we were just talking about concrete, there's more than one kind (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete#Types_of_concrete).

[Scotty]

The thing is I have a i167 and have had it for four years. I never have felt anything like this before. My whole body shakes up and down on the i2.

[GlennO]

Scotty - Like the wheel isn't round? Is it wheel wobble or an out-of-whack hub?

There were a few reports of that months ago. It probably won't help, but could you make sure that the 3 bolts holding the hub in place are all tight?

Glenn

[Scotty]

Yes like the wheel isn't round. Like there is a flat spot on the tire or wheel. The left side is worse than the right. I will check the bolts to make sure that is not the problem.

[bentbiker]

Yes like the wheel isn't round. Like there is a flat spot on the tire or wheel. The left side is worse than the right. I will check the bolts to make sure that is not the problem.
Swap the wheels and that will tell you if it is the wheel/tire assembly or the hub.

There were previously suggestions that rotating the wheel on the studs by 120 and/or 240 degrees solved some side-to-side wobble as tolerances on wheel and hub were canceled out instead of being additive. If somebody riding behind you on a Seg or a bike says the tire is not moving side to side but you still feel it, it could be a faulty tire (or wheel). Since most people don't have runout gauges to see whether the tire is truly causing one side of the platform to rise and fall, you can put books under the batteries to where the tires are just off the floor and rotate the tires by hand to see if the distance between the tire and floor changes more than 1/8" or so (I'm guessing that would be an acceptable amount of runout for these tires and speeds). Make sure the tires are both fully seated against the bead. It took 40 psi to fully seat my tire on the wheel.

Bottom line is that although I would personally want to run tests like above to know what is going on, it is really the responsibility of the dealer to make it right. You have every right to hand the InfoKey to him to solve the problem.

[KSagal]

Scotty,

Try marking the three holes and the three bolts. The on the side that is giving you problems, rotate the wheel 1/3 so that the #1 bolt is in the #2 hole. Test it out. If this does not work, go on to the #1 bolt in the #3 hole. I bet you will be surprised to see a difference...

It has been my experience that the holes are not self centering, like they are on a car wheel. I have found that this partial rotation helps...

On the earlier comment that some lug nuts are 13 mm and some are not... I have a first day i2, and my lug nuts have always been 13mm. Has anyone else seen 1/2inch nuts? The lug bolts themselves have metric thread, so I would imagine that it would be difficult to have true 1/2inch nuts, though 13mm and 1/2inch are pretty close... (I think that 1/2 inch is about 12.5 mm. please correct me if I am wrong)

Good luck...

[polo_pro]

My last set of spinners had a battery pack that was installed towards one edge of the wheel. At top speed (and only at top speed), it created a very odd oscillation showing me that even the weight of 3 AA batteries can have a pronounced effect. As a previous poster pointed out, switching wheels should help show you this type of problem. I'm not sure if you'd get a pronounced bouncing feeling like you describe?

[Mr_Laurenzano]

Re-seat the tire off the gear box.
1. Deflate and check the bead.
Sometimes hitting obsticals at low psi can cause a tire (nonnumatic) to off seat or if it was flat and left to rest on the ground.
2. Pump it back and re tourqe the bolts.
3. If this doesent work
Take lighter fluid and soak the entire wheel open up your zippo light it and roll it down a hill, it will make you laugh and drive the nieghbors MAD.
Yell out load "Little Accident _ Im cool!!"

Have a nice day.
Crash

[polo_pro]

Priceless (and reasonably easy to understand too), Mr L!

[yosgof]

I have a feeling that's going to vary a bit depending on the surfaces you ride on. Even if we were just talking about concrete, there's more than one kind (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete#Types_of_concrete).

Sure, but if we keep statistics the variations in surface, gliding style and all others will average out.

[KSagal]

Re-seat the tire off the gear box.
1. Deflate and check the bead.
Sometimes hitting obsticals at low psi can cause a tire (nonnumatic) to off seat or if it was flat and left to rest on the ground.
2. Pump it back and re tourqe the bolts.
3. If this doesent work
Take lighter fluid and soak the entire wheel open up your zippo light it and roll it down a hill, it will make you laugh and drive the nieghbors MAD.
Yell out load "Little Accident _ Im cool!!"

Have a nice day.
Crash


Wow! I finally understood one on the first reading. Now I have two reasons to be afraid... LOL

[SEGsby]

No... I got a set of new i2 Wheels Kits, actually.

The main reason to replace the originals, was the tread wear on my old pair. But the decision to purchase now, rather than wait a couple more months as I had planned-- was due to hitting some glass on the boardwalk one night. Afterwards, the patched tube didn't hold very well, and it was clear the best days for the right side tire were over.

Fortunately, I have never experienced the "pulsing" sensation you describe, sorry. I hope the advice that's offered by others here, helps resolve the issue you're having with your Segway. Please keep us posted.

SEGsby

I was wondering why you got a replacement wheel assembly. I just got my new i2. At top speed I get a pulsating up and down motion. This is very anoying and a little uncomfortable. I thought you might have got the replacement for that reason.

[polo_pro]

Kink in the tube? If that's even possible. That might make one part of the tire "harder". But I'd think this could only happen if the wrong (larger) tube was used.

[BillK]

I also have the "pulsatng" on one of our Segs. The right tire - I have rotated it and now need to swap the tires to see if it follows the tire or not.

Now - It is relatively easy to rotate one tire as it can stay on its side - how would one go about (best) removing and swapping BOTH tires?

I am guessing that I would need to set the Seg up on something?
Bill

[bentbiker]

I also have the "pulsatng" on one of our Segs. The right tire - I have rotated it and now need to swap the tires to see if it follows the tire or not.

Now - It is relatively easy to rotate one tire as it can stay on its side - how would one go about (best) removing and swapping BOTH tires?

I am guessing that I would need to set the Seg up on something?
Bill
In an earlier post I suggested a stack of books. Works for me.

[KSagal]

To swap both tires I use a ramp, and glide up as fast as I can, then have two pit crews swap both wheels before I land...

Of course, I have only thus far been successful in my sleep...

The rest of the time, I use a wooden block in place of the books, but the idea is the same... For both tires, I use two wooden blocks.

If you look at my segs in my gallery, you will see why I never lay either of them on their sides....